Search this site

Show information HCGB Championship Shows In 2015, the Kennel Club accepted the application of the Havanese Club GB to award Havanese Challenge Certificate (CC) status, allowing Havanese to compete for the first time for the title of British Champion. The first ever HCGB Championship show was held on 18/10/2015, with judge Zena Thorn Andrews officiating. 15th HCGB Championship Show Sunday pm 18th October 2026 Online entry via Higham Press Schedule and Entry form available on Higham Press Website Click for Higham Press 14th HCGB Championship Show Sunday am 18th October 2026 Online entry via Higham Press Schedule and Entry form available on Higham Press Website Click for Higham Press 13th HCGB Championship Show Sunday 19th October 2025 Online entry via Higham Press Schedule and Entry form available on Higham Press Website Click for Higham Press 12th HCGB Championship Show Sunday 19th October 2025 Online entry via Higham Press Schedule and Entry form available on Higham Press Website Click for Higham Press 11th HCGB Championship Show 30th Anniversary Sunday 20th October 2024 Online entry via Higham Press Schedule and Entry form available on Higham Press Website Click for Higham Press 10th HCGB Championship Show 30th Anniversary Sunday 20th October 2024 Online entry via Higham Press Schedule and Entry form available on Higham Press Website Click for Higham Press 9th HCGB Championship Show Saturday 14th October 2023 Online entry via Higham Press Schedule and Entry form available on Higham Press Website Click for Higham Press 8th HCGB Championship Show Sunday 23rd October 2022 Click to download Schedule Click to download Entry form Button 6th HCGB Championship Show Sunday 17th October 2021 am Click to download Schedule Click to download Entry form Button 7th HCGB Championship Show Sunday 17th October 2021 pm Click to download Schedule Click to download Entry form Button 18 Oct 2019 RESULTS 5th HCGB Championship Show Show Schedule 13 Oct 2018 4th HCGB Championship Show Show Schedule 14 Oct 2017 3rd HCGB Championship Show Show Schedule 15 Oct 2016 2nd HCGB Championship Show Show Shedule 17 Oct 2015 1st HCGB Championship Show Show Shedule Please reload

Havanese dogs- history Breed History Origins of the Breed in Cuba The Havanese is a member of the Bichon Breeds family, which includes Bichon Frise, Bolognese, Coton de Tulear, Lowchen and Maltese. Some of these breeds originated in the Mediterranean. The Havanese breed was established in Cuba, probably from two populations of ancestral breeds. The first was a small, white Bichon type breed which was imported into Cuba in the 16th and 17th centuries, and possibly similar to the now extinct Bichon Teneriffe. The second group of dogs was a colourful group of poodle type breeds, which was brought into Cuba in the early 19th century by European immigrants. The Havanese was created as a companion dog, and was, even then, an expensive lapdog, owned predominantly by the wealthy. Cuban Revolution The Cuban revolution, in 1959, had a major impact on the breed. Many wealthy Cuban families left the country, with some taking their dogs with them. However, many Havanese were left behind, with servants or friendly families. It is not clear what exactly happened to Havanese asa breed in Cuba following the revolution; their numbers were probably severely diminished, but it is unlikely that they came close to extinction, given that some of the old breeding families remained. There are no writings, however, that document their history in Cuba during the following three decades. Havanese Founders The breed as we know it today has developed from two groups of founders: 1. The USA Founders: In the 1970ies, Bert and Dorothy Goodale purchased Havanese from exiled Cuban families. These Havanese formed the basis for the breed and its recognition by the AKC. 2. In 1991, the Cuban Havanese Club was founded, and the formal breeding program was re-established. A number of Cuban Havanese were imported into Europe, and together with imports from the USA gave rise to some of the old European lines. Havanese in the UK In 1993, Barbara Benersen imported the first four Havanese from continental Europe. into the UK. More Havanese followed over the course of a few years, and the breed was established in the UK.

Report A Health Issue Click to Report A Health Issue Has your Havanese been diagnosed with a health problem? The Havanese Club of GB has a role in monitoring the health of the breed. This is to help us identify new, emerging health problems before they become widespread, so that we can work with the Kennel Club and affiliated veterinary health professionals to inform and advise breeders and owners. It also helps us offer more complete information to those interested in adding a Havanese to their family regarding the health status of the breed. Please support the health of the breed by informing us of any health problems diagnosed in your dog. Your entry will be confidential, and information provided will be used in anonymised form only to generate annual health reports.

We expect our members to abide by our Code of Ethics Code of Ethics All members of the Havanese Club undertake to abide by its general Code of Ethics as detailed beneath. Breach of these provisions may result in expulsion from club membership, and/or disciplinary action by the Kennel Club and/or reporting to the relevant authorities for legal action, as appropriate. Will properly house, feed, water and exercise all dogs under their care and arrange for appropriate veterinary attention if and when required. 1 Will agree without reservation that any veterinary surgeon performing an operation on any of their dogs which alters the natural conformation of the animal, or who carries out a caesarean section on a bitch, may report such operation to the Kennel Club. 2 Will agree that no healthy puppy will be culled. Puppies which may not conform to the Breed Standard should be placed in suitable homes. 3 Will abide by all aspects of the Animal Welfare Act. 4 Will not create demand for, nor supply, puppies that have been docked illegally. 5 Will agree not to breed from a dog or bitch which could be in any way harmful to the dog or to the breed. 6 Will not allow any of their dogs to roam at large or to cause a nuisance to neighbours or those carrying out official duties. 7 Will ensure that their dogs wear properly tagged collars and will be kept leashed or under effective control when away from home. 8 Will only sell dogs where there is a reasonable expectation of a happy and healthy life and will help with the re-homing of a dog if the initial circumstances change. 9 Will supply written details of all dietary requirements and give guidance concerning responsible ownership when placing dogs in a new home. 10 Will ensure that all relevant Kennel Club documents are provided to the new owner when selling or transferring a dog, and will agree, in writing, to forward any relevant documents at the earliest opportunity, if not immediately available. 11 Will not sell any dog to commercial dog wholesalers, retail pet dealers or directly or indirectly allow dogs to be given as a prize or donation in a competition of any kind. Will not sell by sale or auction Kennel Club registration certificates as stand alone items (not accompanying a dog). 12 Will not knowingly misrepresent the characteristics of the breed nor falsely advertise dogs nor mislead any person regarding the health or quality of a dog. 13 Please reload

History of the Havanese Club of GB formation and milestones History of the Havanese Club of GB First Havanese imported 1992 Barbara Benerson imported the first Havanese to the UK in 1992. She also established the Tammylan Kennel based on the imported foundation stock, the first British Havanese Kennel. Havanese Club Founded in 1994 In June 1994, the Havanese Club of Great Britain held its inaugural meeting. The Club's mission statement, taken from the minutes of the first meeting, was: 'The purpose of the Club is to act as a focal point for knowledge and information, and to introduce this charming breed to a wider audience. It is our earnest hope to promote responsible ownership at all levels and to maintain sound, healthy and happy dogs'. on... Breed Standard approved & accepted by the Kennel Club in 1997 The HCGB continued to campaign tirelessly for recognition of the breed by the Kennel Club. In 1997, an Interim Breed Standard was accepted and approved by the British Kennel Club, and Havanese were able to comete at shows through the Imported Breeds register. this item about? What makes it interesting? Write a catchy description to grab your audience's attention... Crufts 2001 Winners The first Havanese Club Open Show was held in 2001 and, in the same year, the first ever Havanese Breed Classes were held at Crufts. An entry of 23 Havanese was made, under judge Anette Oliver, with a mix of imported and 'home grown' Havanese. Crufts 2001 winners. From left to right, Heather Ridley with Paloma de Chaponay, judge Anette Oliver, and Jill Richards with Chazard Little Andy. . Havanese awarded Challenge Certificate (CC) status In 2015, the Kennel Club accepted the application of the Havanese Club GB to award Havanese Challenge Certificate (CC) status. This means Havanese are now be able to compete for the title of British Champion. The first ever HCGB Championship show was held on 18/10/2015, with judge Zena Thorn Andrews officiating. Please reload Aff

Health Testing Recommendations for Havanese Breeders Eye Testing All breeding dogs, starting after the age of 12 months and before first breeding, should have an annual eye test performed and certified by an official BVA Eye Panelist . Where possible, a copy of the report should be submitted to the HCGB Health Officer. Patella Testing A one off examination of the knee cap should be performed after the age of 12 months and before first breeding, by an experienced vet. The test should certified as per Putnam Scoring system (a form can be found here ). Essential Tests optional Tests The following tests are not considered essential, but it may benefit the breed to gather further information on these conditions. Heart testing not before the age of two years Tests that are not essential but may help collect health information on the breed: Hip & Elbow screening not before the age of one year DNA tests which may include Hereditary Calcium Oxalate UrolithiasisType 1, Von Willebrand's, Haemophilia A, Methaemoglobinaemia, Macrothrombocytosis, CDDY Chondrodystrophy, and traits such as furnishings and colour dilution

How to join and Application form Current annual membership fee: Single: £8 Joint: £10 Junior: £1 Download Application Form

Grooming Advice The coat of the Havanese may be clipped or kept long. Show dogs must have long hair, but family dogs can be trimmed short for no-fuss grooming. As the owner of a Havanese you are going to do a lot of grooming. Having the right equipment will make all the difference in whether this is a pleasant experience for your puppy or not. You will need to groom your puppy whether you keep him in his natural long-haired state, or whether you choose to have him in cut shorter in a puppy clip. Some people think a shorter coat is easier to manage, but easier does not mean maintenance free! Here is a list of what I would say are the essentials; items I think you absolutely cannot do without – other grooming tools are useful and good but for starters make sure you have these:- • A good quality Pin Brush – not one with bobbles on the end of the pins as they split the ends of the hair. Ideally the pins will be precision machined brass (which causes less static than steel). They need to have rounded ends to the pins so they do not scratch the skin. Before you groom your dog with the brush (and ideally in the shop before you buy it even) try the brush on your forearm. Brush your arm reasonably firmly – if your arm feels scratched and sore then that is how your puppy will feel all over if you use that brush. Good quality pin brushes will not scratch you and will ease tangles out without causing too much pain to your puppy. A comb – again use one with rounded ends to the tines rather than sharp A good shampoo and conditioner A “Grooming Spray” A bottle of eye cleaner and cotton wool pads “Thornit Powder” or other ear plucking powder. Ear cleaner Toothbrush and toothpaste Nail clippers/grinder Blunt ended scissors for cutting the hair from around the pads of the feet. Styptic Powder A word about why Havanese grooming is so essential Havanese dogs are double coated; they have a top coat and an undercoat. Many double coated dogs have a distinct difference in texture between their top and under coats – most undercoats are soft but the top coat is course – when dogs like that moult the soft coat easily falls away from the courser top coat. A Havanese has no distinct difference in texture between its top and under coat – both are soft. What this means is that as hairs loosen at the root to drop out, they do not drop but instead become entangled. If left, matts will occur. Matts are not only unsightly, but also uncomfortable and unhealthy for your dog – matts can harbour dirt and mite. The only way to avoid matts is thorough LINE BRUSHING – parting the hair and brushing in sections, ensuring that the whole length of each hair, from skin to end, is brushed. This not only detangles the hair enabling it to stay cleaner and free of debris, but it also massages the skin ensuring good blood flow to the hair follicles and proper distribution of natural oils to maintain a healthy shiny coat. Do not be tempted to use an undercoat rake on a Havanese – undercoat rakes are designed to pull out the soft undercoat of breeds of dog with a distinctly courser top coat – certainly not for Havanese coats. Grooming - Daily if possible Although your new puppy will not ‘need’ a daily grooming initially, in order to train him to keep still and behave whilst you are grooming him, it is wise to go through the motions of grooming each day, ready for the time when he ‘really does need’ it. Line brushing is a lot easier if your dog will lie on its side and allow you to lift his legs to reach his tummy etc. Start to teach him to lie like this as a puppy so that, by the time you really need him to lie like that for line brushing, he is comfortable with it. Keep it short and sweet, but practice often remembering to praise and treat good behaviour often. Also practice having him stand – make sure that the surface you are using is not slippery or he may get spooked. If you have a rubber surfaced grooming table – great… if you do not, improvise using a bath mat or something – just make sure your puppy will not skid about. Holding your hand under the crease of your puppy’s back legs will discourage him from sitting down. When your puppy will lie or stand still you can start line brushing using your PIN BRUSH. Basically line brushing just means systematically brushing all the hair – where you start and where you finish is a matter of preference, and indeed it is good if you do not always brush starting and ending in the same place, because doing things differently could lead to brushing the hair at a slightly different angle which helps to ensure you do not miss any parts. Hair splits less, if static is minimised – this is what the Grooming Spray is for. You can buy a grooming spray or you can mix a little conditioner with water, and spray that on sections of hair so as to slightly dampen (but not saturate) the hair you are brushing. To brush the legs you can either have the dog on their back or have the dog standing: if the dog is on its back, I hold the leg up. Start where the leg meets the body, brushing small sections away from you, so the hair is being brushed against the way it would naturally fall if the dog was standing up. Go carefully and do not tug (matts appear most often in the armpit areas). On each brush stroke make sure you get the brush right into where the skin starts, but without scratching the skin. Assuming you do not find any matts, work your way through, brushing small sections from the armpit, until you reach the foot. Once you have finished one leg with the pin brush, go over it again with the COMB to make sure you have detangled everywhere on the leg. Brushing the legs this way, against the natural fall of the coat, creates a very fluffy look; when you have finished you may want to stand your dog up and comb through again, following the natural fall of the coat. If the dog is standing I start at the foot, holding the hair out of the way with one hand and, with the brush in the other hand, brushing sections downwards. Work your way up the leg to the body. To brush the body:- If the dog is on its back, imagine a line running down your dog’s tummy from head to tail (the mid-line). Work on small sections of hair at a time, brush all the hair working outwards from the mid-line. Remember to get the brush right to the root of the hair as when tangles and matts start to form, that is where they usually start. When you think you have finished with the brush, go over the same area again with your comb. When you have brushed all of the underside of the dog, section by section, let the dog stand or lie down on his side and continue to brush small sections working your way towards his spine. If the dog is standing reach under the dog to brush the underside in small sections, and then comb through the area. When the underside is done continue the remainder of the dog as above. Dealing with Mats Your dog will get mats at some time so you need to know how to deal with them. With most mats it is a case of locating the mat and then, using your comb tease out that part at the very ends of the hair. Keep going slowly and gently to tease out sections getting closer and closer to the hair root. There are various de-tangling products on the market. You can also use a little cornflour or conditioner on the mat and to tease it out as mentioned above. Bathing Always brush your dog before bathing him – if you do not any knots and tangles that are there will tighten and get far worse once wet, so they will be more difficult to remove. Before you put your dog in the bath or sink put a non-slip mat down for him to stand on so he does not skid about. Choose a shampoo that is very gentle. Also be aware that not all shampoos are tearless, so be very careful around the eyes. If shampoo gets into the eye it can cause more problems than just a little stinging – it can burn and cause ulcers in the eye. If shampoo does get in your dog’s eye rinse the eye very thoroughly with clean cool water. Once you have shampooed you may choose to condition – I like to do this because well-conditioned hair is less prone to tangles. The type of conditioner you use will depend on what your dog’s coat is like at the time; if the coat is quite fluffy and you want to tame it you will want a different product to if the coat is smooth and silky – the confusing thing is that the same dog will probably require both sorts of treatment at different stages. When you try new products try to get samples before you splash out on buying a lot of a product which may not suit your dog. Just as there are many different shampoos and conditioners for humans, so there are many different ones for dogs. Dogs’ skin has a different pH to that of humans, so although some people use human shampoo on dogs, it could cause skin problems. For us an itchy scalp is irritating, but imagine if instead of just your scalp, the itching was all over. Remeber to always dilute shampoo and conditioner, never use neat, unless it is a specialist product for a specific task and is meant to be applied undiluted. Diluting shampoos and conditioners will also lead to the pH moving towards the neutral range. The final stage of every bath-time is thorough rinsing and drying. Any excess product left in the coat is likely to cause itching, and scratching those itches will cause matting…. so if you want to avoid mats make sure you rinse very thoroughly. As regards drying, the weather will dictate whether you can air dry your dog or whether you really do need to use a dryer. If you do use a dryer, use a warm rather than hot setting and keep checking its temperature with your hand so it doesn’t become too hot and burn the skin. Remember, wet dogs can chill quickly if the weather is cold. Once your dog is no longer saturated but merely damp (almost dry), groom him again to remove any tangles that have found their way into the coat during rubbing shampoo in etc. I like to finish with a spray of mink coat oil which helps tame flyaway hair and helps to restore oil to the coat which the bathing has partially stripped out of the coat. Ears & Eyes Some Havanese dogs need to have any long hairs plucked out of their ears to keep the ear canal clear. Excessive hairs can cause debris to accumulate which can lead to problems. Havanese with lighter growth do not need routine plucking. You will find opinions divided on this topic! Whilst plucking sounds a painful and tricky task it is actually quite simple with the right product. I use Thornit powder, which seems to weaken the hair root….. you dust a little into each ear and wait 20 or so minutes…. then, with your thumb and forefinger pull the hair out. I would not say it is a pleasure for the dog, but it is not particularly painful (I know this as I have tried the product on my nephew’s eyebrows, and he was amazed that I did not even need tweezers to remove hairs). After you have used the Thornit powder clean the ear with an ear cleaner. The eyes of Havanese dogs often suffer a little because of their long fringes hanging in their eyes. In their native Cuba their fringes protect their eyes from fierce sunlight…… but here in the UK they do not need that protection. I tie fringes back using a french plait because it holds the ends out of the eyes but it does not pull on the roots of the hair too much. If the hair is pulled too tight it can fall out in that area (traction alopecia), so do not pull topknots tight. As regards keeping the eye area clean and reducing tear staining, I use an eye cleaner such as “Pretty Eyes”, but there are many other products on the market. Soak a cotton pad and place over the hair around the eye and hold it there for a short while to soften any debris. If necessary repeat until any debris is soft enough to wipe away from the eye. Often, whilst the debris has become soft, it still sticks to the hair stubbornly – this is when you use the face comb – just to remove any soft debris which is not coming off easily with a cotton pad. Use separate cotton pads for each eye to avoid transferring any infection should there be any. Teeth Just like human beings, your dog’s teeth accumulate plaque, which can harden into tartar. If the teeth are neglected, bacteria can grow causing infections. Regular brushing can help maintain your dog’s teeth and gums, as well as keeping his breath fresh. You should brush his teeth 1-2 times a week, but there are also other ways – There are some wonderful products available to help keep your dog’s teeth healthy – Plaque-off is a seaweed based powder which you sprinkle on the dog’s food. It works by changing the saliva so plaque does not stick to the tooth enamel in the same way. Another is Petzlife -which can be obtained in either gel or spray. Besides helping your dog avoid getting plaque, Petzlife can remove plaque that has already built up on teeth. If you start at a young age by scratching the muzzle and handling the mouth you should soon be able to rub the teeth and gums with your finger. Then you should be able to easily progress to gently brushing the dog’s teeth with a small soft toothbrush or finger brush. Never use human toothpaste as it contains detergent, which will foam in the dog’s mouth and if swallowed may upset the stomach. A better alternative is to use canine toothpaste. This special enzymatic toothpaste is available from your vet or pet supply store in an assortment of palatable flavors like chicken, liver and malt. Be very careful about giving your dog bones – the only bones a dog should have are those which do not splinter and large enough that they cannot be swallowed or become wedged across the mouth. Stagbars (pieces of deer antler) are completely natural, ethically sourced and ideal for puppies as well as older dogs. Chewing releases “happy” chemicals in the dog’s brain which help to make the dog calm and contented. This is why, chastising a dog harshly for chewing something they should not have can cause the dog stress such that he looks to alleviate that stress by… you guessed it…. chewing! You may also give nylabones, or (my Hav’s personal favourite) Dentastix, which she has last thing at night. Chewing helps the teething puppy but do not leave a puppy unattended with anything it might chew pieces off as the pup could choke. Instead, if the puppy is going to be unattended opt for a chew he cannot get pieces off – a Stagbar or chew toy (inspect chew toys frequently to make sure they have not become so well chewed that there is a danger that pieces may come off. Trimming Nails Nail care is a basic grooming issue. Your dog’s nails should be trimmed about twice a month. Long nails interfere with the dog’s gait, making walking awkward or painful. They can also break easily. With black nails it is very difficult to see where the quick of the nail is. If you cut a nail down to the quick it will bleed and your dog will not like it. I use a Pedipaws which is a rotating emery cylinder with a nail guard to stop the hair getting caught by the rotating head. The Pedipaws grinds rather than cuts so you do not ever go too short to make the nail bleed. If you accidentally cut the quick of the nail, it bleeds, so treat it with styptic powder as calmly and rapidly as you can. If you have great difficulty with cutting nails, most vets or groomers will do a nail clip for a nominal charge. Pet Clip Many pet owners do not want the work of keeping a Havanese in full, show coat, so prefer a shortened coat that will be easier to brush and maintain. The most popular option is to have the coat clipped or scissored to a uniform length all over. Your groomer can help you decide which length is best according to your grooming skills and inclination as well as the appearance that you wish to maintain. If longer hair appeals to you, but there is just too much of it, you can have it layered 3 to 4 inches all over, with the feet rounded and the hair around the eyes trimmed. This is easier to manage, but must be combed out several times a week. Anal Glands Dogs have two scent glands located at the periphery of their anus. If you imagine the anus as a clock face they are located at approximately 2 o’clock and 10 o’clock. Normally the glands will empty without you having to do anything, by the pressure created when the dog defecates. However, if the dog is constipated so does not pass any stools for a while, or if the dog’s stools are loose (so that insufficient pressure is placed on the anal glands) then the anal glands may not empty without intervention. In such circumstances the anal glands become enlarged and very uncomfortable for the dog. You may notice a strong fishy smell around the dog’s rear end, and you may notice the dog scooting his bottom along on the ground in an attempt to empty the anal glands. If you notice any of these things I would advise you to take your dog to the vet or your local groomer who will charge a small fee for emptying the anal glands and who, if you wish to deal with it yourself in the future, can show you how to do it yourself. If you suspect that the anal glands may need emptying do not just put it off – it is very uncomfortable for the dog and if left infection can occur. If, on a frequent basis, the anal glands are not emptying without intervention then speak to your vet about it – it may be that you need to think carefully whether any food or treats you are giving are right for your particular dog – your vet will be able to make appropriate recommendations.

HCGB 8th Champ Show 23rd Oct 2022 Judge's Critique

What do hip and elbow screening results mean? Health screening is primarily performed to give breeders the opportunity to select healthy animals with good conformation for breeding, without unnecessarily excluding dogs from the genetic pool. In the UK, the vast majority of radiographs for Hip & Elbow screening will be submitted to the British Veterinary Association's Hip and Elbow Dysplasia Schemes for scoring. The new RKC Breed Health Standard stipulates that results of other schemes will be internally recorded, but only BVA scores will be published on the RKC website and count towards the 'Best Practice' category. BVA hip scoring system (score 0-106) The X-ray image is examined for features of 1) hip laxity and 2) degenerative changes. Based on nine radiographic features, each hip is separately assigned a numerical score from 0 to 53 , with a total score of 0 to 106. It is usually reported as a total score, as well as listing both hips separately, e.g. total score of 3 (0/3) or total score of 21 (10/11). The lower the score, the less evidence of Hip Dysplasia (and possibly arthritis) was found on the X-ray images. Read More BVA elbow scoring system (score 0-3) The X-ray image is examined for features of elbow dysplasia and degenerative changes. Each elbow is separately assigned a numerical score from 0 to 3 , and the higher of the two scores is then reported as the result. If one elbow scores 2 and the other 1, the result would be a score of 2. The lower the score, the less evidence of Elbow Dysplasia was found on the X-ray images. Read More How are Hip screening results interpreted? Before looking at the interpretation of hip and elbow screening results in Havanese, it is important to acknowledge that a test based on humans making a judgement by looking at images is inevitably an imperfect system, subject to observer variability. To manage this risk of bias, schemes in different countries have taken steps towards a degree of standardisation, and use multiple observers. The BVA for example has two scrutineers look at each radiograph, whereas the OFA uses three scrutineers selected at random from their pool of specialists. The grading or scoring methods used vary globally, meaning that results may differ depending on the scheme used, and consequently breeding recommendations may also be different in different countries. The BVA hip scoring system, as above, can result in a wide range of numerical scores. Their recommendation is that, within a breed, only dogs with scores in the more favourable half of the results (i.e.not above breed median score or BMS) are considered for breeding. This has served many breeds with a high prevalence of degenerative hip disease well, with improvement of hip scores over time, and the scheme is considered a success. However, there are currently insufficient numbers of tested Havanese in the BVA database to provide breeding recommendations. The same applies to the Australian database, which uses the same system as the BVA. The RKC primarily consulted the OFA database statistics before deciding to recommend BVA Hip and Elbow screening as an optional health test for Havanese in the Breed Health Scheme. The OFA uses a categorisation of hip results into ‘normal’, ‘borderline/indeterminate’ and ‘hip dysplasia’. Their ‘normal’ bracket is equivalent to BVA scores of 0-18, and in the interim, before we have a meaningful volume of data on Havanese in the BVA database, this may be a reasonable guide. It is fairly easy to determine, by whichever grading system is used, which hips are definitely good or definitely bad. Nobody would argue against excluding dogs with signs of arthritis on their screening radiographs from breeding. The challenge is with those where there is no evidence of arthritis, but varying degrees of hip laxity, particularly in a breed with no convincing evidence of a high prevalence of early onset degenerative hip disease. As a Breed Club, the HCGB will need to have a dialog with the RKC Health Team and their specialists on how to implement Hip & Elbow screening without a detriment to our genetic pool. For comparison of Hip grading schemes in different countries, click below. Hip Schemes